White Gold is an alloy of gold. The mixing of pure gold with silvery-white metals such as silver, rhodium and palladium gives white color to pure or yellow gold.
It was initially designed to imitate platinum, a precious white metal. In the industry, the term “white gold” is often used to describe alloys of carat gold with a whitish tint.
The word “white” refers to various colors intersecting with pale yellows, pale pinks and browns.
White gold is a jewelry alloy of aurum with other components that change the usual yellow or red tint to white. You can safely forget the misconceptions that platinum or silver are hidden under a beautiful phrase. But the confusion did not arise out of nowhere.
The Spaniards first learned about platinum when they conquered America: the Indians used white metal in religious rituals.
Its color coincided with silver, but it’s refractories and higher specific gravity were reminiscent of gold. It was precisely because of its external resemblance to Argentum that it was called platinum (Spanish Platino – small silver, silver) or Oro Blanco (white gold).
The characteristics of white gold depend on the metal alloys and their proportions. Therefore, white gold alloys have multiple uses but mostly in jewelry.
Composition of White Gold
White gold comprises pure gold and a mixture of dense metals such as
- silver;
- platinum;
- palladium;
- nickel;
- zinc;
- iridium;
- ruthenium;
- bronze;
- copper;
- Osmium.
- Rhodium
White color is achieved by carefully selecting alloying metals that discolor the reddish-yellow color of pure gold. The amount of gold is measured in a carats unit (K). In 24k gold, all 24 pieces are pure gold with a shallow level of impurities.
White jewelry acquires a platinum tint if the ligature is dominated by palladium.
Nickel-based alloys give gold a gray-yellow color.
Silver makes the metal white but dull, sometimes with a slight green tint.
The most famous sample of white gold is 585. Its 1 gram contains 585 mg of pure gold, and 415 is reserved for the ligature.
A common proportions of metals in White Gold:
- 58.5% – gold,
- 28.7% – silver,
- 8.7% – zinc,
- 16% – palladium
- 17% – nickel
The 750-karat white gold ligature often contains palladium or platinum, silver and nickel. Such jewelry requires more reverent care than those of 585 assay value because they contain more gold, which is soft and plastic in its pure form.
Likewise, 18K gold contains 75% (or 18/24) gold, while 22K gold is 91.6%. The proportion of alloy added affects the overall durability and the final gold color.
For example, 22K gold is stronger and more yellowish than 18K gold. Typically, white gold is marked with 18 carats. It contains 75% gold and approximately 25% nickel and zinc.
Some types of white gold contain 90% gold and 9.5% nickel. In addition, a small amount of copper is added to it, which increases plasticity.
White gold used in the jewelry industry is either gold-nickel-copper-zinc or gold-palladium-silver alloys.
The mixing of nickel and palladium plays a role as primary bleaching agents that reduce the color of gold, whereas zinc behaves as a secondary bleaching agent.
Palladium, which has been more expensive than gold in recent years, lends itself well to processing, raising the melting point of the gold alloy and changing its color. A small concentration (only 1%) is enough to make the aurum silvery-white, and 10% palladium turns gold white. Such an alloy is malleable and ductile.
Some white gold jewelry is additionally plated with rhodium, a rare silver-white metal. It enhances the shine and durability of the jewelry, making it smooth and shiny.
How White Gold Is Made
Pure gold is soft and malleable, and it is mixed with metals that increase strength and durability, making it convenient to use in jewelry making. However, the gold in any industry is seldom pure. Some impurities (for example, mercury) are added even before alloying to produce white gold. Pure gold would not maintain the desired shape without more complex alloys – gold itself would be too soft.
Steps to form White Gold
White gold is formed in three steps as follows:
- Pure gold is melted,
- Then the prepared master alloy is melted,
- And then, everything is mixed until a homogeneous mass is formed.
The white gold is often rhodium plated. It is a noble metal of the platinum group and the rarest and most expensive. It has essential features, thanks to which it has become indispensable in jewelry.
Rhodium is hard, resistant to wear and tear. But the main thing is that it gives gold an exceptional shine because alloys are dull, with shades of yellowness and even slightly greenish.
Rhodium-plated gold has a rich, pure luster, retains its original appearance for a long time, and is less susceptible to mechanical damage.
Rhodium plating occurs as follows:
- First, the surface of the product is polished or polished,
- Then it is degreased and washed,
- Then it is dipped into a galvanic bath with a unique solution of rhodium salts.
- At last, an electric current is passed through it (solution); as a result, the rhodium is released, covering the decoration with a thin layer. Craftsmen call this process “cooking”.
After coating, the jewels also get a shiny metallic hue. If, after a couple of years of wearing socks, you notice that the white gold ring or earrings have changed color, and instead of white, a reddish or pink tint appears, then it’s time to renew the coating.
White Gold Jewelry
The cool white gold has a sophisticated shiny metal look and is among the most stunning jewelry-making alloys.
100 years ago, “gold” was associated only with yellow. Still, today in the jewelry arena, in addition to the classic colors, silver and platinum, there are unique options for lovers of stylish experiments.
Cost of White Gold Jewelry
The cost of white gold jewelry depends on impurities mixed with pure gold. The most expensive components are platinum and palladium.
Therefore, white gold jewelry with this composition is often more expensive than red and yellow models.
Platinum and palladium are hard metals to process and undergo a particular production cycle. Working with them requires high skill, which affects the jewelry price. But the result is excellent quality.
Nickel is most often added to 585 samples. Its advantages are low cost and ease of processing.
Types of White Gold Jewelry
The decoration on each finger has its meaning. And it can be viewed both from the point of view of traditions and from the point of view of psychology.
Even in ancient times, a ring on a finger could tell a lot about its owner. Just one piece of jewelry could reveal family and social status, financial position, birth and type of human activity. There were many jewelry traditions, and the meaning of the rings on the fingers has not changed for centuries.
Today, rings have turned into ordinary jewelry, but they can tell a lot about a person.
- White gold necklace
- white gold earring
- white gold bracelet
- white gold chain
- white gold watch
- white gold bangle
- white gold studs
- white gold pendant
- white gold locket
- white gold nose ring
- white gold anklet
- white gold wrapper
How To Distinguish White Gold From A Fake Jewelry
If you buy jewelry in a store, all information about the jewelry is already indicated on the tag. But only a specialist can grasp the differences in the palette: despite the almost steel shine, there are warm notes in white gold. If a cold color still dominates the color scheme, you have silver in front of you.
It is believed that it is possible to identify a fake if you hold the jewelry on white paper. Silver will leave a noticeable mark, and the sheet is immaculate after gold.
If you are ready for chemical experiments and specific risks, dip the product in vinegar. White gold will not change color, but pure silver will change.
But such methods are far from reliable; they should be attributed to simple entertainment.
It is possible to accurately determine the composition of the metal using special reagents. The main reference point for the buyer should be a test on jewelry.
To find out if the declared information on the tag matches reality, use spectral analysis, which is done in pawnshops. So you will find out what impurities there are in the composition of the decoration.
X-ray fluorescence is an inexpensive, simple, and quick flash test method to estimate the percentage of metals in precious items.
Its principle is based on the ability of any substance to reflect and luminescent waves of a certain length when exposed to X-rays and diffraction rays.
The main advantage of spectral analysis is that it provides highly accurate information and does not damage jewelry structures.
How to care for white gold jewelry?
- So that the jewelry does not lose its luster and serve longer, they need care:
- Please do not wear them to the solarium, sauna, gym; take them off when doing household chores and go to bed.
- Store jewelry separately in a jewelry box or individual velvet pouches.
- Do not use abrasive products, powders or stiff brushes for cleaning.
- Do not drop jewelry with stone inserts to avoid damaging the mineral.
- Put on accessories after applying cream or lotion to your skin. Cosmetics build up on the surface of products and make them look dull.
- If the jewelry is dirty, you can clean it at home using a soapy solution. Place it in water for 20-30 minutes, then rinse under the tap and dry with a microfiber cloth.
Advantages and Disadvantages of White Gold
White gold has its merits and demerits like many other alloys.
Advantages
- It will not rust, tarnish or corrode.
- White gold can be mixed with harder metals, making jewelry more scratch-resistant and durable compared to rose gold. Cost 50% lower than Platinum Jewelry.
- White gold can be more intricate in design than platinum.
Disadvantages
- Rhodium plating will wear off over time and must be replaced every few years.
- Requires cleaning and polishing every few years to keep it smooth and shiny. However, this is a relatively inexpensive and straightforward process.
- Nickel-alloyed white gold may cause allergic reactions in some people.
FAQ
Is white gold found in nature?
No, white gold does not occur naturally. Instead, it is handcrafted by adding silvery-white metals.
The first-ever version of white gold was created in the 18th century in Germany. However, white gold replacing platinum was first produced in the 1920s.
How rare is white gold?
White gold is not uncommon because it is made from gold, often found in free elemental (native) form and minerals. Platinum, however, is scarce. It is one of the rarest metals in the earth’s crust, with an average content of about five micrograms per kilogram. Since only a few hundred tons are produced annually, platinum is one of the leading precious metals.
Can regular white gold turn yellow?
Nowadays, almost every white gold piece of jewelry is plated with rhodium (a silvery-white metal), so it does not yellow or tarnish with normal wear. However, this coating needs to be changed every few years. Otherwise, the rhodium will gradually wear off, revealing the actual tone of white gold.
Can hand sanitizer damage white gold jewelry?
Yes, anything that contains alcohol can damage white gold jewelry. Since alcohol is corrosive, it can gradually erode the metal finish of the jewelry. In addition, if the disinfectant contains an excessive amount of alcohol, it can cause white gold items to lose their shine more quickly.
Conclusion
White gold jewelry is versatile. It combines perfectly with others, looks beautiful, and sometimes plays a significant role in the image.
White gold contains cheaper alloys, which means that your gold jewelry’s purity (carat) is reduced. For this reason, white gold has a lower resale value than 22K or 18K yellow gold.
Therefore, if you buy jewelry for investment purposes, it is better to opt for purer, reddish-yellow gold or silvery-white platinum.